The History of Audemars Piguet: Founding the Brand

In 1874, two younger entrepreneurs in their early 1920s reconnected inside the Vallee de Joux in Switzerland. The pair had recognized every different considering the fact that youth, and their names had been Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet. A year later in 1875, they determined to enter enterprise together. Little did they recognise their namesake logo would grow to be one of the pinnacle groups of their industry. this is the foundation and history of Audemars Piguet.

Combining Strengths for Success

Each Audemars and Piguet had grown up in the Vallee de Joux, immersed within the area’s deep horological roots. They got here from generations of watchmakers and had learned watchmaking at a younger age. every had unique strengths in one-of-a-kind regions of watchmaking to convey to the desk as they established their preliminary workshop. They have been the appropriate fit.

Audemars became quite technical, having worked often inside the production of complex watch actions. So, he targeted on heading up production, supervising product improvement, and production the uncooked additives for their early timepieces. on the other hand, Piguet served because the repasseur or master watchmaker, appearing the very last regulation on the watches. He carefully inspected every completed aspect, made all the important adjustments, assembled the movements, and taken the watches to existence. Later, as the organisation grew and evolved, Piguet found his ardour for the commercial enterprise side of income, advertising, and management and shifted into that position.

Watch Innovation Spanning the Centuries

The logo made its first truely groundbreaking introduction in 1892 with the improvement of the primary minute repeater wristwatch. just a few years later in 1899, they debuted the “Grand complication” pocket watch. The model boasted seven precise headaches, inclusive of a grand and small strike, minute repeater, alarm, perpetual calendar, deadbeat seconds, chronograph with jumping seconds, and cut up-seconds hand.

Matters changed for the agency whilst each founders exceeded away within the span of a 12 months, from 1918 to 1919. however, the enterprise remained inside the succesful fingers of the founders’ sons, Paul Louis Audemars and Paul Edward Piguet. collectively, they continued to carry at the family culture of innovation with the creation of the thinnest pocket watch caliber in 1925, the development of the primary skeletonized pocket watch in 1934, and the debut of the thinnest wristwatch in 1946.

Becoming a Watchmaking Icon

Audemars Piguet solidified its region in watchmaking history within the 1970’s. as the Quartz disaster endured to impact the enterprise, Audemars Piguet and other traditional watchmakers were struggling to live relevant. The logo knew they had to do something ambitious. So, on the eve of the 1972 Swiss Watch display (now referred to as Baselworld), the dealing with director of the organisation met with legendary designer Gerald Genta. He instructed Genta the brand’s aspirations of creating an entire new category of watch, the posh sport watch, and they needed a design to offer the next day. Genta changed into immediately inspired, and his genius went to paintings. The result was the long-lasting Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet Today

A decade later, the flagship version received an improve from fashion designer Emmanuel Gueit, and the bigger Royal all right-offshore turned into born. though these strikingly unconventional fashions were polarizing upon their initial debuts, they have ultimately come to define the emblem. still, Audemars Piguet has never ceased to hold innovating. In party of the enterprise’s 125thanniversary at the turn of the century, they unveiled a particularly complex model showcasing the Equation of time, dawn, sundown, and a perpetual calendar mechanism. whether or not you pick out one of the brand’s famous models, just like the Royal Oak, or one in every of their relatively complex headaches, you know you’re sporting an icon whilst you sport an Audemars Piguet.

How much should a watch repair cost?

Fixinga timepiece is in the end vital to preserve your watch going for walks nicely and keeping proper time.  The restore can variety from a quick battery trade on a quartz watch to a full overhaul of a best automatic timepiece. 

Right here’s an outline of the distinct kinds of watch upkeep and commonly how much they may cost:

Battery Change

Quartz movements prevent running when the battery dies, and you will just need a brand new one.  Pricing on a battery trade tiers from as little as approximately $10 to upwards of $45 to $60 to reseal and strain check a water-resistant timepiece after switching out the battery.  

a few complicated watches which are hybrid quartz and chronograph actions can value $65 to $95 for a battery alternate.  while you are paying $forty five or extra for a battery change, the repair save should additionally smooth the case and the bracelet for you, although re-polishing metal or gold bracelets and cases involve an extra price.

New Bracelet or Strap

Watches have either straps (generally leather-based, animal skin or a new fabric like rubber or carbon fiber) or bracelets (commonly steel, gold, platinum or titanium). 

While you make a decision to get a new strap, you can replace it with a comparable one or select something distinctive that still suits your unique version.  alternative straps vary based totally on fine. it can typically start at $20 for a simple leather strap but can variety all the way up to $500 the pinnacle Swiss manufacturers.  

Replacement bracelets are often greater high priced and might range from $50 to $75 for a primary metal bracelet all the way as much as $1,000, even as gold and platinum bracelets can cost thousands of greenbacks depending on nice and weight.

Mechanical Watch Overhaul

The overhaul of a mechanical watch is a really complex process which involves taking apart the movement (the mechanical inner of the watch), washing all components, changing worn components, oiling the motion, calibrating the time and resealing the whole lot.  It takes hours and brings the watch almost returned to new mainly if the overhaul consists of the cleaning and polishing of the exterior of the watch as well. 

An overhaul need to come with a warranty for 1 to two years to make certain the timepiece maintains functioning properly from regular use.  An overhaul’s price degrees based totally at the manufacturer but for a excellent Swiss timepiece, it normally begins at $two hundred however can cross up to $1,000 or greater for a vintage watch.  A Rolex overhaul is typically around $800 with various $six hundred to $1,000.

Crystal Replacement

The crystal is the clear, difficult fabric that sits among you and the dial and palms of the watch.  high-quality timepieces have crystals crafted from synthetic sapphire even as entry level watches often have acrylic crystals.  every so often the crystal may be cracked or scratched after impact, but it may be easily changed. 

The value of the replacement can variety from $30 for an acrylic up to $a hundred and fifty or greater for a substitute sapphire crystal from a fine Swiss producer. 

Other Watch Repairs

There are different minor fixes including the alternative of the crown, converting the dial, replacing the arms, etc.  The watch restore price can certainly variety primarily based on the logo and circumstance of the watch.  in case you require of those sorts of repairs.

SUMMER SPECIAL: 60’S VINTAGE DIVER SHOOTOUT PART 2

And…we’re lower back with element 2 of our summer time unique: 60’s antique Diver Shootout presenting 4 archetypal watches from manufacturers which are nevertheless right here these days. To recap, within the first episode, we supplied a rundown on the specifications of our opponents even as imparting a little flavor on each watch’s records. The frontrunners, in most minds would truly be both the Rolex “pink” Submariner Date or the Omega Seamaster 300 “big Triangle”,  classics that tend to find themselves on the tops of many collector’s want lists. the other horses in this race might also come off as lengthy pictures, however each the Doxa three hundred Searambler and the Seiko 6159 expert convey their personal unique deserves to the derby. permit’s stroll through the details and see if we finish with a decisive victor at the end. In no particular order, permit’s get going…

The Rolex Red Submariner

From the “I don’t understand whatever about watches” attitude or even the “I recognize watches and check them out on pedestrians from across the street” viewpoint, there’s no case layout extra iconic than that of the Rolex Oyster. adding a turning bezel possibly even makes it greater sizeable and that’s what we've got right here with the Rolex Submariner. It’s ironic that each different watch featured on this opposition consists of a much more tricky layout, but by some means it’s always the Rolex that comes to thoughts whilst deliberating financial institution vault-like power. credit score thick, robust searching lugs and crown guards surrounding a huge screw-down crown for a variety of the conceived notions. however Rolex backs it up because that crown locks down with authority and there’s little to no slop. although it’s at the decrease facet of the water resistance ratings in our competition at 200M, this watch seems like it could do the activity. From a completing perspective, it’s workmanlike, however no longer reasonably-priced. This contains through to case again that’s completely unadorned. subsequently, whilst considered from its side, this model includes a wildly thick “pinnacle hat” acrylic crystal that brings photographs of submersibles to thoughts. It’s easily the coolest crystal of the bunch.

The bezel? It clearly looks the commercial enterprise and the truth that Rolex hasn’t deviated at all in its design during time makes one think that it’s ideal, but is it? On early Subs like this, the bezel is a bi-directional friction healthy with out clicks. To be sincere, I’ve never found a Sub bezel to be a in particular clean piece of package to use. perhaps it’s because they get gunked up below, however to me the scalloped knurling is too shallow and not usually smooth to grip. whilst one’s arms are wet or at all oily, it simplest exacerbates matters. alternatively, there’s little worry of the bezel getting accidentally bumped. The piece uses an aluminum inlaid widespread 0-60 minute counter with numbers every 10 mins, most important hash marks for the 5 mins among and character minute hashes for the first 15 minutes. A tritium lume-crammed pip sits inner an arrow at 12:00. additionally, and i'm no longer a diver, a few whinge about the Sub bezel’s loss of unmarried minute markings at the aluminum insert. i am getting that, but something tells me that in case you’re without a doubt counting on every final minute on your tank, you’ve got bigger issues handy.

As a ways because the dial is concerned, the red Sub, or any Sub for that count number, charges up there with watches just like the Speedmaster as among the most recognizable in all of watches. As far as legibility, it’s textbook with its formidable lume indices towards a matte black historical past. The same can be said approximately the hands with the their simple, but useful layout together with the  “Mercedes” hour hand. Even the inclusion of a date window doesn’t bother me on this Sub as it’s become near synonymous with the majority of Subs which might be walking around today. The purple Sub is all commercial enterprise and it does it nicely.

Motion clever, the crimson Submariner is the most effective piece within the quartet to acquire a chronometer rating. That’s well worth a few bonus points, but these are wanted due to the fact the rest of the motion is as an alternative rudimentary. There’s no hacking, no brief set date feature, and there’s nothing fancy approximately the frequency at 19,800 bph. then again, the caliber 1575 is called a fantastically reliable motion that trundles alongside even if most proprietors neglect to carrier them regularly.

Coming to the intangibles consisting of fit, legacy, bracelet design, and collector interest, there’s very little to argue. A 40mm Rolex is an excellent secure put on and looks super on the traditional oyster bracelet or nearly any kind of strap. It’s additionally come to be ideal to wherein in any form of surroundings. As for its legacy, the Submariner trumps almost something obtainable as the identical crucial design is still with us these days. And, in the end, there’s no denying that that is the maximum precious of the four watches reachable nowadays and would be the perfect to sell. Who is aware of what the destiny will convey, but the Sub is the “it” watch currently.

Case, Crown, Crystal: 7/10 “An icon only let down by its simplicity, but boosted by its build quality, precise crown, and funky steep crystal.”

Bezel: 6/10 “It’s hard to ignore the classic looks of the Rolex Submariner dive bezel, but the functionality could be better.” 

Dial design: 9/10 “A damn near perfect execution – only a version without date is better.” 

Movement: 7/10 “Basic and hard-wearing – chronometer certified.”

Intangibles: 8/10 “For now, like buying a blue chip stock worth holding onto with the added bonus that it’s truly wearable and versatile.” 

The Doxa 300 Searambler

Next up in our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout is the Doxa 300 Searambler. this is via a ways the most unorthodox searching watch in our contest as it includes a c-case shape and coupled with a silver dial. It dares to add colour in which the other watches usually stick with black and white. The Doxa case, notwithstanding in this example have passed through a rather liberal refinish, is actually something to behold. From its aspect, it’s very thin and while flipped on its back, it’s as if metallic was scooped out in the course of forming. For 1966, this whole look need to have encounter as pretty different, however as we now recognize, it foreshadowed a glance that become absolutely pervasive in the 1970’s. As mentioned in our establishing article, this Doxa has an oem crystal, which is a disgrace. in any other case, we’d be peering through a lens comparable in stature to the top Hat observed at the Rolex, but with a chunk more dome. It ought to be cited that the screw down crown at the Doxa is a wobbly one with only a few threads maintaining it in location. It’s no longer the most self belief inspiring put into effect for an eye intended to go right down to 300M.

The Doxa three hundred Searambler employs one of the greater modern dive bezels in watch records. specially pairs america army “no-deco” table with a trendy 60-minute timer. the 2 one of a kind scales are separated in what seems like separate plates of metal but they obviously flip collectively while gripping the saw tooth area. It’s distinctly tactile and in all likelihood the first-class layout of the 4 when one thinks about the usage of it with gloves. seems clever, the Doxa boasts the maximum cause-built searching dive bezel complete with all sorts of little engraved numbers. I repainted the orange outer numbers the use of a toothpick and a few Revell teeth (I realize, now not the first-class process) and it’s this look that provides lots of individual, however additionally limits this watch to extra casual settings.

The dial of the Doxa Searambler is the particular one on this 60’s antique Diver Shootout for wearing a shade apart from black and coming together with a few wicked orange hands. It’s a beautiful dial that, no matter some ageing over the years, has a first rate metal sheen that rings a bell in my memory a piece of the Costin-bodied aluminum Lotus racers from years again. As said, the orange fingers are constructed for the task because the seconds hand is overstated and the useless-for-diving non-lumed sweep hand blends into the background.

Doxa chose the ETA 2472 as its motion and that makes it a robust and serviceable one, but it is the best watch within our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout without bespoke works. I ought to frankly care much less, however when you remember that fees of “one and accomplished” no T 300’s are quietly encroaching at the excessive unmarried digits, it makes one want for a little extra uniqueness inside the engine bay. Plus, the best convenience the 2472, aka Doxa caliber 118 brings is a semi quickset date feature with the aid of toggling between 10:30pm and midnight.

While it all comes all the way down to it, the Doxa does shine while carrying. It’s a absolutely particular look among 60’s divers and draws extreme interest due to its colorings, shape, and aggregate of matte and polished surfaces. The sublime beads of rice bracelet that is difficult to locate is extraordinary and handy to wear, however also a chunk fragile because of the springs that allow it to modify to the wrist. happily, the entirety from a 20mm NATO to a Tropic like i've here paintings best properly. For a small organisation, the Doxa broke boundaries with its progressive bezel and case design. Don’t forget that it additionally kicked the tail out of the massive boys with 100 meters more of water resistance. The most effective real problem is finding one. No T 300’s come up so infrequently that you may generally expect one hand the specimens that floor inside a calendar yr. nonetheless, if one is observed and the fee isn’t atrocious, it’s a fairly profitable piece to add regardless of the situation. Doxa’s were made to be worn and maximum were!

Case, Crown, Crystal: 8/10 “Extra points for being daring and introducing a c-case to the fold in 1966! Weak crown, though.” 

Bezel: 10/10 “I wouldn’t want to read this thing at depth with a flashlight, but the utility, precision workmanship, and tactile feel can’t be denied.” 

Dial design: 7/10 “The color wins points as do the hands, but the rest of the dial is a touch busy – still, it’s iconic.”

Movement: 5/10 “Dependable, but the least “special” movement of the bunch.” 

Intangibles: 9/10 “The cool kid of the party right now – a seriously rare bird that a lot of collectors want.”

The Omega Seamaster 300

Behind door wide variety three in our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout stands the Omega Seamaster three hundred “huge Triangle”. I’ll simply come out and say it, but I find this watch to be the most fashionable of all of the watches in the contest. There’s honestly some thing about the ones lyre lugs and the case from the facet that make this watch so particular. Plus, it’s the lone diver that makes do with out either protruding crown guards or guards because of a recessed screw down crown. This gives the Omega a miles dressier look in my opinion. That crown, through the way, is an smooth component to apply and includes just sufficient threading to make it experience comfy. It’s truly lighter to apply than a Rolex, but higher than the Doxa with the aid of a long way.

I additionally locate the dial and bezel of the Seamaster 300 stunning and at the same time as Omega has given us divers with comparable looks when you consider that, they’ve never recaptured the appearance of this series of watches. credit large swaths of growing older tritium, equally yellowed fingers and white Arabic numerals that use an ideal font. Then, there’s that inlaid resin bezel with embedded luminous numerals that drives creditors wild. The bezel itself is a clicking affair that includes coin facet ridging on its aspects. It seems archaic when as compared to the others, however it’s sincerely a quite useful design. sure, the resin is particularly fragile, however it’s were given the looks!

In the large Triangle sits the Omega 565 caliber computerized. It’s a motion that sits within a protracted-going for walks family of pacemakers from the emblem and it’s recognized to be a reliable workhorse that’s quite easy to provider. It’s also one of the two actual quickset date movements inside our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout grouping. Now, the quickset is actually a bit exclusive and the entirety feels fragile. I had my first experience with it on a Seamaster 2 hundred that I reviewed a pair years again and it took me by using wonder. basically, one unscrews the crown and pulls it out to the time placing role. Then, in what feels spastic and difficult-carrying on the poor little motion, the consumer pulls the crown out similarly in a popping motion (the crown springs back) to speedy alternate the date. do that to move forward 10-15 days and it’s intestine wrenching! That being stated, I’ve by no means had one break and it is damn handy. It’s additionally humorous to appearance back at the numerous distinctive approaches manufacturers experimented to exchange the date – something this is so easy nowadays and we without a doubt now take it for granted.

At 42mm, the Seamaster 300 is certainly one of the bigger portions in our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout, but it wears so well. With all that yellowing lume, polished case, a nicely domed Hesalite crystal, and that antique-looking bezel, it suits like a cozy vintage pair of jeans when paired on a rusty old leather-based strap. Of course, it appears desirable on an 1171 bracelet as nicely. For some motive, although, the watch doesn’t sense pretty as vault like as the Rolex, but it's miles a solidly constructed diver. the opposite large poor on three hundred’s is that so many had been modified and there are loads of newer builds and fakes. it is a simply difficult watch to find in original and first rate circumstance. nonetheless, there’s no doubt that that is the show pony in the institution.

Case, Crown, Crystal: 9/10 “Gorgeous case design only let down by a slightly flimsy feeling crown.” 

Bezel: 8/10 “Old school sexy, only let down by its fragility and the number of fakes on the market.”

Dial design: 8/10 “The prettiest dial of the bunch with all that lume and those great hands.” 

Movement: 7/10 “Workhorse in-house movement that scares me with its explosive quickset date changes!

Intangibles: 8/10 “A great watch only let down by the fact that they even top Rolex Submariners in the number of fakes on the market.”

The Seiko 6159 Professional

We sooner or later come to the final watch in our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout and that’s the Seiko 6159 professional. This watch can be credited for developing or making more popular many design tropes we see in current Seiko divers. Take the monobloc case, the recessed screw down crown at four:00, and so many other little info which can be with us these days. That beautifully sculpted case is something to be visible in person – specifically from the facet and the case again. yes, it's far tall, however it’s solid. It’s additionally the handiest diver of the bunch to feature a non-acrylic crystal, opting rather for Seiko’s own Hardlex mineral glass. It’s one of the features that helps it price to 300M within the water resistance department. The crown takes a few attempt to unscrew and line back up well in an effort to positioned again in, however it’s reassuring and there’s no flimsiness.

The dial of the Seiko 6159 is easy and adds gold-coloured detailing around the implemented hour markers and arms. It’s a robust appearance that might affect destiny Seiko divers consisting of the 6105. The bezel, in this situation a countdown timer, makes use of the same font that we nevertheless see nowadays. It’s a bi-directional clicking affair that’s turn out to be fairly loose and sloppy through the years, as the spring internal has at ease a chunk. It capabilities close-ridged notches on its aspect that make gripping fairly easy. It’s a conventional searching watch that’s most effective obscured through the first rate amount of reflection caused by the almost flat crystal.

How the hell did a lowly Seiko make it to this showdown anyways? other than its looks, construct great and the developing popularity of the emblem amongst curmudgeonly collectors, one wishes to look inside the watch. yes, within the Seiko is where things get interesting as we’re dealt with to the gadget gun sounds and epic sweep hand smoothness of a 36,000bph hello-Beat automatic. It’s a gem that handiest gives me heartburn due to problems if it desires servicing – this one thankfully obtained the care of the Seiko Frankfurt boutique. parts are rattling hard to get. but fortunately, it’s a stout runner and i wear it sparingly. We’re additionally, fortunately, afforded a traditional quickset date in which the person advances it by way of turning the crown. in case you’ve by no means spent time with a Seiko hi-Beat, and there are really some distance less expensive options, you want to achieve this. This motion is the rock famous person within our 60’s antique Diver Shootout.

The Seiko 6159 expert is the most important diameter piece inside our 60’s vintage Diver Shootout at nearly 44mm, but it somehow wears higher than that because of its 50mm lug to lug. perhaps its almost 15.5mm thickness makes it seem smaller laterally, however I don't have any issue in pulling it off with my thin wrists. With 19mm lugs, strap fitting may be a ache, but i love it on khaki or olive NATO straps. right here, we've got it on an extraordinary antique Seiko orange “chocolate bar” strap that appears badass, but will now do time in secure maintaining as I’d hate to crack it. 6159’s are a surprisingly difficult discover and they’re luxurious in recent times with 5 figures turning into relatively regular for minty portions. regularly, though, one has to have a look at eastern listings due to the fact now not many made it out of doors at some point of the 2-12 months production run. touchdown this properly-used specimen changed into a actual conquest for me and represents the give up of a very lengthy hunt. for the reason that getting it again from service, I’ve no longer been at all disappointed. In reality, I met up with a strict collector of Swiss watches and he couldn’t take his eyes off of it and the verbal exchange regularly returned to the watch. sure, Seiko has arrived.

Case, Crown, Crystal: 8/10 “Beefy with some fantastic sculpting on its sides. Great crown function with a lot of glare caused by the mineral glass crystal.” 

Bezel: 7/10 “A bit flimsy, but looks great and a fantastic insert.” 

Dial design: 8/10 “Great dial that hits on all kinds of Seiko diver design traits and the use of gold can’t be denied.”  

Movement: 10/10 “Can you say 36,000 beats per hour? Enough said.” 

Intangibles: 7/10 “A legend within Seiko circles that’s finally gaining recognition amongst a widespread audience – but you need to shop in Japan.” 

So, with that, we’ve reach the end of our 60’s Vintage Diver Shootout, but what do the scores show and what do I think?

Rolex Submariner: 37/50 

Doxa 300: 39/50 

Omega Seamaster 300: 40/50 

Seiko 6159: 40/50

Damn, the scores are near! Amazingly, I didn’t maintain track of them as I wrote the tale and went again to feature them up at the quit. So what does it all suggest? properly, no longer a lot sincerely apart from the fact that I clearly enjoy some of these watches to a comparable quantity (i'm hoping in order i purchased them!). I think it also shows that none are perfect. sure, the Omega scored mega factors because it’s so darn suitable searching and the Seiko due to the fact i really like the motion and i’m a softie for underdogs. The wild thing is that due to its robustness, I wear the Rolex maximum. The Doxa is an eccentric piece and comes out a lot on informal Fridays.

The 60’s vintage Diver Shootout was actually an exercising in a laugh and an try to expose four cool divers within the equal setting so that you can evaluate and evaluation a couple probably combatants (Rolex and Omega) along a couple upstarts (Doxa and Seiko). we are hoping you enjoyed it and perhaps you’ll give a idea to selecting up some thing on your upcoming summer season vacations.

#TBT GOING HANDS-ON WITH THE SEIKO 7C46 GOLDEN TUNA

In case you’ve been following #TBT, and Fratello Watches for that remember, for any period of time, you’ve surely observed that we’re huge lovers of the Seiko Tuna series of watches. whether analyzing Gerard’s history of the watches or sifting via any variety of version-particular articles, our admiration runs deep for these oddly shaped, however unique divers. And so, these days, it’s with rather of a bittersweet feeling that we’ve come to the cease of our journey on antique “true” Tunas with a take a look at one of the brand’s maximum a hit and popular versions, the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna. Don’t worry, we’ll be lower back with more love for the shrouded beasts, however the ones articles will attention on the slightly much less pure variations. let’s test the ultimate of the antique Tunas, however earlier than we do, a recap is in order – and this includes antique and present day.

The 6159 “Grandfather Tuna” 

Introduced in 1975, the groundbreaking 6159 “Grandfather Tuna” introduced the shroud as we understand it nowadays, introduced full titanium construction, a hi-beat motion, and 600M of water resistance. I wrote about it in certainly one of my earliest articles with Fratello and Robert-Jan distinct his a pair years later. This watch become in production until kind of 1979.

The 7549 “Golden Tuna” 

In an ongoing quest for the closing in precision timekeeping, Seiko introduced the 7549 Golden Tuna in 1978. With a quartz motion, this new Tuna became the first professional diver strolling with this sort of heartbeat. Sound boring? It wasn’t in 1978 and cost 50% greater than the 6159! It shared the equal 600M depth rating as its mechanical counterpart, however brought inside the gold titanium nitride covered case that we’ve come to experience so much from the emblem. This watch was in manufacturing until roughly 1985.

The 7C46 “Ashtray” Series

Some could take issue with us list the 7C46-6009/10 series, higher called the “Ashtrays” due to their unique scalloped bezels, inside the Tuna framework, but collectors often consider those professional divers as circle of relatives participants notwithstanding the screw-down case again. introduced in 1986 and in manufacturing via the early 90’s, these are enormously rare beasts. The -6009 comes in stainless-steel while the -6010 is cased completely in titanium. those amongst the maximum one-of-a-kind divers from Seiko, however with 600M of water resistance, they’re some distance more than just a, erm, quite face.

The 7C46 Marinemaster Professional 300 

Coming to the greater cutting-edge Tunas, we took a have a look at one of the more famous models, the Marinemaster expert three hundred. those function shrouds, but additionally a screw-down caseback, so many recollect these to be a “light” version of the species. still, they’re distinctly wearable and the same model has been around for the reason that mid-eighty’s with few changes apart from exceptional case and bezel variants and a alternate in hands numerous years lower back to Seiko’s new, albeit controversial, theme. specifically, we reviewed an all black limited edition model commemorating the japanese Manga individual “Duke Golgo” from Golgo thirteen.

The SBDX011 “Emperor Tuna”

For 2009, Seiko ultimately replied the bell with the reintroduction of a mechanical Tuna inside the shape of the SBDX011, in any other case known as the “Emperor Tuna”. It’s a large, menacing watch at 51mm and accomplished all in black, and it contains some terrific specs. Titanium construction, 1000M of water resistance and a detuned Grand Seiko 9S55 movement are just a number of the goodies. The equal watch is largely on offer nowadays, but with an updated shroud and the aforementioned newer fingers. individually, i like this piece with the traditional fingers and it appears creditors agree as charges are slowly growing.

The SBDB008 Spring Drive “Golden Tuna” 

The present day variation of Tuna involves us from 2013 within the form of a Tuna with a Spring drive movement. prior to the discharge of an all black reular production version of this watch in 2014, Seiko determined to launch the concept with a restrained edition (only 300 made) Golden Tuna version. The watch become and is vast for a pair motives. namely, it was the primary time the Spring drive motion had been placed right into a shrouded case and it also brought the polarizing new handset. The Spring drive Golden Tuna brings a wild movement, titanium, ceramics and ridiculous lume to the birthday party and fees a hefty top class in the procedure!

The Seiko 7C46 “Golden Tuna”

Now that we’ve taken a experience down reminiscence lane, permit’s come again the focus of our article, the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna. In 1985, Seiko introduced the sector the final expression of its expert diver and decided to residence it within a monobloc-shrouded case. In what likely appears blasé these days, the emblem debuted a brand new movement with the 7C46, paired it with a gold titanium nitride-lined important case, and upped the ante with a loopy 1000M of water resistance. the brand new motion came with an outstanding five years of battery existence and gave the consumer fair warning that it was time to replace the battery while the seconds hand commenced to leap 2 seconds as opposed to the standard 1.

Different common Tuna tendencies carried on with the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna together with the hallmark L-formed gasket, Hardlex crystal, flat-vented rubber strap, lume-stuffed plastic inlay bezel, unidirectional bezel, and a quickset day and date. The watch grew barely over its 7549 predecessor (49.6mm diameter vs 49mm) and its height is a sturdy 16.1mm. Lug to lug is someplace round 50mm, so it simply fits in the definition of a tuna can.

The dial of the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna capabilities stepped forward lume whilst compared to the prior generation of watch. rather than what looks like a skinny layer of glowing cloth at the 7549, the 7C46 brings thick, slightly blobby and sloppy expanses of the stuff into skinny-bordered hour markers. The printing on the black dial of the 7C46 shows a few improvement as well. It’s carried out inside the equal gold ink that paperwork the crosshairs extending from the markers at 6/nine/12. All advised, it’s a extra modern-day look that suits an eye that become made till the early 2000’s. The hour and minute arms maintain their traditional shape, however are gold in coloration this time as opposed to metallic. The sweep hand keeps the lollipop of lume look on its returned give up, that is a “inform” to the Seiko trustworthy that a quartz heartbeat probably lies inside. You’ll also see the outstanding little Suwa symbol to the right of the date window, a pleasant vintage touch that would maintain on via the ninety’s.

As noted, the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna used clean, black zirconia for its shroud. The authentic 6159 used a difficult-completed ceramic that was susceptible to chipping at the same time as the 7549 employed powder-covered titanium. The smooth 7C46 feels silky smooth by using comparison, but is likewise known to chip if the impact is blunt sufficient. It’s really greater of a contemporary appearance, however i will’t help opt for a bit more texture to my shrouds.

still, possible keep in mind that Seiko became purpose on imposing greater advanced substances on their top grade watches. a look from the side additionally suggests us that the crown in this watch has lost some of its gold nitride coating, thereby exposing stainless-steel underneath. It’s a fairly not unusual prevalence on these Golden Tunas as sweat and oils begin to attack the finish.

A study the case lower back of the Seiko 7C46 Golden Tuna brings the acquainted Tsunami emblem to the middle along with the addition of a meter showing us years in chronological order. You’ll spy a small marking just before 1986 and that denotes a battery alternate have to’ve been achieved sometime in 1985. The watch changed into produced in February of 1990 (the “zero” and “2” are visible whilst I’ve obscured the rest of the serial variety), in order that makes feel with more or less 5 years of battery lifestyles at the 7C46. as opposed to the preceding 7549 models, the 7C46 also carries a lot extra substances records. We see the ceramic shroud, a base steel bezel and a titanium case again are listed; a real curious blend of low and high tech!